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San Francisco Beginner Dye Talk

2 Apr

Inviting my California digital dye friends to come hear my dye talk in San Francisco to the Textile Arts Council at the DeYoung Museum.

ROOTS, WOOD, BUGS AND BERRIES: NATURAL DYES

Presented by Deb McClintock
Saturday, June 15, 2019, 10 am
Koret Auditorium, de Young Museum

http://www.textileartscouncil.org/roots-wood-bugs-and-berries-natural-dyes/

Gasp…Japanese Indigo in mid-March in the Hill Country

24 Mar

Truly unusual, indigo in mid-March. When I left on my travels in mid-January I noticed that, for the first time my Japanese Indigo had sprouted on its own. In January. I figured it would freeze back, but come mid-February it had grown well and was holding it own. I left the country again thinking our late February or early March freezes would put it in its place.

Well, I am home now, my husband did defend the plants thru one deep freeze (serious husband points) and the indigo is thriving, even blooming. Normally this time of year I would be turning the soil, enriching it, placing the drip hose and eyeing the seeds figuring out when to start the seed packs.

So, now what do I do? Let it continue to grow till it hits a foot and harvest it? I am tempted to do a pigment extraction. I usually dry & hold. Suggestions are welcome.

This is truly a bonus crop from last year’s seeds left in place. We still have cricket season in the near future. If I do see cricket chomping I will harvest. In the meantime I will dig out my seeds and prep my seedlings to drop in between these early bonus plants.

Winter Garden Chores

12 Jan

Temps here in Texas are just weird this season. Japanese Indigo seeds are sprouting early. Never have they sprouted in January.

Madder root are poking new shoots out rather than going dormant. Mid-January is just not the time for this dye plant behavior.

Being the weather opportunist I had Emerald Landscape local folks out to pull a large perennial flower bed which was past its prime, weed & layout a pad for an indigo pot work area. More to come on this pot install journey later.

After 10 years here our rosemary had gotten old and overgrown and needed to be pulled. Since John & I have also gotten older as well the day of garden muscle help was most welcome.

Since I did not have to wrestle rosemary bushes out of the ground I used this wet day to trim back madder root away from acanthus bushes and save the roots for dyeing. I hate to toss red roots. The gardeners think I am nuts.

Here are the roots after cleaning. I will let them dry for a couple of days and then cut them smaller for further drying.

The garden bed is now prepped for the 3 year root harvest. It has been 4 years since the last harvest. More to come on this harvest later. Where’s my pitchfork?

Life Interrupted By Dementia

2 Dec

I don’t post my finished product much to this blog. I tend to focus on “the process” but here is an exception. Much gratitude to Linda Haddock at EchoInJohnsonCity for her generosity in creating a salute to Dementia Awareness Month. My natural dye block woven rug which she purchased via the Hill Country Science Mill Auction is featured in her store.

A brief tour of the Echo Art Front Board

Salt Rub Tadeai (Japanese Indigo)

21 Nov

Lately a video shared via a Facebook Indigo group caught my eye. A hilarious Japanese woman was shown using salt as a tool to extract color from a Japanese Indigo variety with apparent success. I’ve dubbed it the Indigo Salt Rub method. I’ve never seen it written up anywhere in historic literature.

Here’s that video link! I claim no credit but just sharing the info…Enjoy.  Skip the ad!

For those who speak Japanese here ya go, please let me know in the comments if you glean more info if you read thru the blog.   Here is the  website, it looks like the gallery has a blog where more info is embedded.

My experiments are below, a reminder that this works with this species of Japanese Indigo because of the beta enzyme that causes the indigo to bind with the protein fiber. It is a short-lived enzyme so one must work the material quickly before the benefit dissipates with exposure to oxygen.

In October I decided to give indigo salt rub a try as demonstrated above and also add a twist with my dried Japanese Indigo. I don’t have much fresh indigo this year due to the strange weather so I thought this would be a noble cause for dried leaf sacrifice.

Below are my results with appropriate labels. I did use tight spun organize silk sourced from Bhutan. My control amount was 30 grams since that is what my prepared skeins weighed. My personal impressions are:

  • Salt rub with Japanese Indigo does give you a truer blue than the blender method. This was the case with JUST Japanese Indigo as a base rub.
  • It is great for small items where you just want use a few leaves for color. In my case, I harvested to dry my indigo for later use and used the leftover leaves that I stripped off the stalks for hanging for the salt rub method. Keep some silk blanks around to use or some tight spun protein silks that can take the rubbing. Remember the mechanical process is rough on the material.
  • I would not do this with wool. The effort to rub the leaves would most likely felt the wool. The blender method is much more sane.
  • It is not a high production method, it takes time to smash the leaves and rub the color evenly thru the skein.
  • I used ordinary table salt, some folks online have suggested using rock salt for better pressure points to break the leaves down. It appears that the teacher in this video used some type of larger salt crystal. Since I was rubbing silk skein I opted for limited salt impact and more time/muscle.

Once I saw how the color took on the straight salt rub I wondered if it would work with my dried indigo. John Marshall in his Singing The Blues covers a method, Cooked Raw Leaf and Enzyme Bath, in his “Singing the Blues” book (p. 27). That method worked nicely if you have a good amount of indigo and need to spread your work over a period of time. So I tried a couple of approaches.

Fresh Leaf Indigo Salt Rub – worked as reported, it did take time but yielded a blue. I used 30 grams of fresh leave to my 30 gram silk skein. The color yielded was not as dark as possible only because I was not willing to give up my leaves I am drying for future use. This became my basis for comparison to the next two skeins.

Fresh/Dried Leaf Salt Rub – I added 30 grams of dried leaves to 30 grams of fresh leaf and rubbed away. It was not successful. I had hoped that the beta enzyme in the fresh leaf would kick off the dried indigo to bond.

Fresh/Soaked Dried Leaf Salt Rub – keeping in mind that straight dried did not work with the kneading, I tried soaking to soften the leaves. I soaked 30 grams of my dried leaf for a couple of days to break down the cells and added that mush to my fresh leaf mush. This soaking did not yield a darker blue than my control skein. Overall it was fun to try this experiment but in my region I just cannot grow enough Japanese Indigo to take advantage of this rubbing method.

And I have taken my fresh leaf and dried leaf remains and formed patties to air dry.  I plan to see how these patties work in part 2 of a Rowland Ricketts recipe for extending the use of my leaves after they have been dried.

The salt rub method with the Japanese Indigo gave a truer blue than the traditional blender method.
The blender method combining both the Indigofera Suffruticosa and the Japanese Indigo provided the best blue for the least effort and use of fresh leaves of methods tried todate.

Blender Blends!

10 Nov

And here are the results of the blender comparison.  My interest was in pushing the use of the beta-glucosidase found in the Japanese Indigo species to affect other varieties of indigo, in this case, Indigofera Suffruticosa.  A paper titled

rβ-Glucosidase in the Indigo Plant: Intracellular Localization and Tissue Specific Expression in Leaves

compiled by a team of Japanese scholars goes thru some of the details of cell structure.  This paper is located on https://academic.oup.com.  I am not a scientist but am using the culture of grandmothers’ knowledge to try this.  One day I will hook up with a scientist to understand WHY this works.

Let’s play “What was in the fresh leaf blender?” Please note these skeins have not been washed! More to come after washing to see what really sticks.  ANSWERS BELOW!

1. Which skein is blender indigofera suffruticosa?

2. Which skein is blender Japanese Indigo?

3. Which skein is a “blend” of both Japanese Indigo and Indigofera Suffruticosa?

4. Which is the leftover skein for all season?

Please note the @botanicalcolors hoops in use!

Note how the Indigofera Suffruticosa mixed with the Japanese Indigo presents a stronger blue rather than the traditional green of Blender Japanese Indigo

John Marshall’s Japanese Indigo dye resource released

17 Jul

Passing on the word that John Marshall’s book has been released in printed & affordable format. For those of us who grow Japanese Indigo on a small basis due to garden or climate limitations it gives us choices on which technique to try with our precious crop. I have been fortunate to watch this release be tested & developed. We have not had a practical guide released on this side of the ocean in decades. Firmly rooted in the Japanese tradition John has translated, tested and added his personal experience to this tradition. Your guild should have a copy. If you grow and want other avenues to explore other than extraction you will enjoy the brain biscuits that John has beautifully prepared for us. Enjoy!

http://www.johnmarshall.to/indigo/

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